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What metering does Karl use?

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Lizzard View Drop Down
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Joined: 03 Jan 2013
Location: Hamburg
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Lizzard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: What metering does Karl use?
    Posted: 03 Jun 2013 at 10:45pm
Hi!

In one of the Videos, Karl discusses in regards to different types of Lenses and what they mean -ie wide angel, fish eye, etc and he is taking Images of his model on the beach. He is also using an on camera Speed light Flash with his shots.

At the end of the Video, Karl demonstrates two Pictures - one done with a Flash and one done without a Flash. The one done without the Flash the model is too dark and the one with the Flash the model is beautifully lit. What I am wondering though, is what sort of metering would Karl have been using in each of These Images? In both Images the sky has this beautiful rich blue Color - thus my question is - is Karl using Center weighted metering? Or spot metering? If spot metering, has he metered on the sky (as it is so dark) then recomposed to include the model? Or metered on the face of the model? If so, how has he achieved such a beautiful rich blue sky while lighting the model with the Flash? derease in EV??

I hope you understand what Video I am referring to and I appreciate any Explanation here!

Cheers!

Lizzard

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horizon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote horizon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 12:08am
Hi Liz,

Most DSLR cameras has some of the older film metering technology, such as spot metering, centre weighted and matrix. The reality is, if you test photographing the same scene using all three modes, the results will be barely noticeable.

So the question is, why is this option still there? Unfortunately, there is no definitive answer that I have found. Personally I just use center weighted.

If I want to spot meter, I will point and take a reading on the brighter areas and the darker areas and then normally split the difference. Sometimes I need to use filters to assist.

Personally to achieve those results that Karl has done in the examples as you have mentioned, you would expose for the sky, (this will be the brighter area) and then the model would be underexposed, you then fill with flash.

For myself, I do manual flash, and I tell the flash and camera how much power to use, and I dont rely on TTL, and this takes time to get a feel for results you want and how to achieve them. You might find, depending on location and time of day, the difference between sky and subject could be as much as 4 or 5 stops of light. And if you meter for the model, the sky will be blown out.

This can take some experimenting to get the look you want.

You can adjust how the results turn out, by changing the flash power and the shutterspeed, especially if you are wanting a particular DoF and then you could compensate with ISO or +-EV flash. But if you are doing all manual flash and camera, the +-EV is not that relevant, just adjust the flash power accordingly.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Craig

Edited by horizon - 04 Jun 2013 at 12:09am
Camera's are tools, use what is right for you.
Please dont edit my photo's.
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Lizzard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Lizzard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 7:06am
Thanks Craig! I was thinking that he was metering on the sky, causing her to be dark and then fill with the Flash, but I was not sure...

Thanks for the tips! I will test a few things out!
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